The Rise, Fall, and Revival of Korean Sool: A Spirited History
The Origins of Korean Alcohol: Sool Through the Ages
Korea's love affair with alcohol, or sool (술), stretches back over a thousand years. Before the industrialized, mass-produced green-bottle soju you see today, Korean alcohol was a diverse and deeply artisanal tradition, crafted from native ingredients and regional techniques. The earliest records of Korean brewing date back to the Three Kingdoms period (57 BC – 668 AD), when methods from China and the Silk Road influenced early fermentation practices.
The most famous of these ancient brews was makgeolli (막걸리), a milky rice wine packed with probiotics and complex flavors. Later, during the Goryeo Dynasty (918–1392), Korea saw the introduction of soju (소주), brought over by Mongol invaders who had learned distillation techniques from the Persians. Interestingly, the original soju was made with rice, and its production was highly localized, with every region developing its own unique version.
Colonial Rule and War: The Decline of Traditional Sool
Korean sool flourished for centuries, with aristocrats sipping on yakju (약주) (refined rice wines) and farmers enjoying hearty makgeolli after a long day's work. However, the 20th century was devastating for traditional alcohol production. The first major blow came under Japanese colonial rule (1910–1945), when Japan imposed strict brewing laws that restricted home brewing and small-scale production, consolidating alcohol manufacturing into industrialized operations controlled by colonial authorities. Many time-honored sool traditions began disappearing as a result.
Things only got worse after World War II and the Korean War (1950–1953). In the post-war years, South Korea faced extreme rice shortages, leading the government to ban the use of rice in alcohol production in 1965. This forced distillers to turn to cheaper starches like sweet potatoes and tapioca—ingredients that were never used in traditional Korean sool. This shift paved the way for the birth of modern green-bottle soju, which is a far cry from its ancestor. Instead of traditional fermentation and distillation, modern soju is typically diluted ethanol mixed with sweeteners and artificial flavoring.
During this period, traditional brewers were nearly wiped out. Family recipes that had been passed down for generations were lost, and knowledge of authentic sool-making techniques faded from public memory. Makgeolli, once Korea’s go-to drink, became associated with old farmers and was seen as outdated compared to Western liquors and mass-produced soju.
The Industrialization of Soju: From Heritage to Mass Production
The soju most people recognize today—cheap, sweet, and sold in green bottles—bears little resemblance to the original spirit. The modern version is mass-produced by large companies using industrial ethanol derived from imported starches (often from countries like Vietnam and China). The low alcohol by volume (ABV) of 14-17% makes it easy to drink, but the original soju was traditionally distilled to around 40% ABV, resulting in a more complex and flavorful liquor.
Meanwhile, makgeolli underwent a similar fate. Many modern brands use pasteurization and artificial sweeteners, which strip away the depth of flavor and beneficial bacteria that defined the drink for centuries. What was once a naturally carbonated, tangy, and hearty rice wine became a mass-produced beverage with a standardized, overly sweet taste.
The Revival of True Korean Sool
Thankfully, in the last couple of decades, there has been a resurgence of interest in traditional Korean sool. Artisans and small brewers are reviving lost recipes and returning to traditional methods, crafting premium soju, makgeolli, and yakju using real rice, nuruk (traditional fermentation starter), and time-honored techniques.
Since the government lifted its ban on rice-based alcohol production in the late 1990s, a new wave of craft sool producers has emerged. These brewers focus on quality over quantity, bringing back the nuanced flavors and deep cultural significance of Korean alcohol. Consumers, too, are starting to appreciate the difference, seeking out artisanal sool over industrial alternatives.
In recent years, Korean craft soju and makgeolli have started gaining international recognition, popping up in cocktail bars and Michelin-starred restaurants. Even in Korea, younger generations are rediscovering these lost traditions and embracing high-quality soju over its diluted, artificial counterpart.
A New Era for Korean Alcohol
Korean sool has endured wars, colonization, and industrialization, yet it refuses to disappear. The tide is turning—drinkers are starting to recognize that real soju isn’t just a cheap party drink, but a deeply traditional and complex spirit.
So next time you reach for a bottle, think twice before grabbing that mass-produced green bottle. Seek out a small-batch soju, try an unpasteurized makgeolli, or explore the world of aged yakju. You won’t just be enjoying a drink—you’ll be taking part in a centuries-old legacy that’s finally making its comeback.
Cheers to the true spirit of Korea! 무롱!
